Out of parm’s way

Sticking with the non-Church Street themes I established in my reviews, this weekend my friend and I grabbed a table at LÕAmante on College Street.

ItÕs a place I often forget about because, except for the wooden door and subtle sign, LÕAmante just looks like an office building.

A gracious hostess took our coats at the door and we proceeded around a corner to the dining room Ñ nothing more than a large, square room separated from a small bar by only a wooden divider.

The menu contains a mix of light Italian and American bistro classics, with an impressive list of red wines Ñ how very Italian.

I was feeling more American that evening _Ñ hence the headline Ñ so I opted for the roasted chicken with truffle mashed potatoes, asparagus and rosemary jus.

Most rosemary chicken dishes Ñ and mashed potato sides Ñ tend to be dry, but both of these were excellent.

A note on the wine. IÕm not sure who began the rule that white wine should go with white meat, red with red meat and sweet goes with sweet, but itÕs a terrible one.

I paired a light red to go with the asparagus, not the chicken. The spring vegetable is infamously difficult to pair with wine and I find it can make the wine taste metallic.

Our waitress suggested to me a lovely light red blend, AmbraÕs Barco Reale.

LÕAmanteÕs motto of, Òcasually elegant,Ó is fitting, but perhaps not in a good way.

The wait staff was dressed in pressed white-collar shirts, but with blue jeans.

The dining room was warm and softly lit, but it was so loud I could not even hear my friend across the table from me.

Not to split hairs, but the white tablecloths were a little much for the vibe.

All in all, LÕAmante is a must-visit with parents or for a third or fourth date.

Final thoughts? ÒLÕAmanteÓ is Italian for ÒThe Lover,Ó but love is way too strong a feeling for this restaurant and my relationship.